Even as sushi's popularity soars, many
cautious diners still won't try this Japanese cuisine because
they think it's created solely with raw fish -- and therefore
potentially unsafe. But in truth, a number of ingredients
don't leave the kitchen without a stop in a skillet, and you'll
find more and more cooked sushi these days.
Sushi minutiae
The originators of sushi couldn't have imagined half the tempura-battered,
peppery, fruity versions that exist today. Long ago, sushi
was merely a method of preserving fish. First, raw fish was
pressed between layers of salt. A few weeks later, the stones
pressing the fish were removed and replaced with a lighter
cover. After a few months, the fish was ready to eat with
rice.
This original fermented sushi, narezushi, still is available
in a few locations, but it isn't for the timid. The flavor
is very strong.
In the 18th century, sushi began to take the shape we recognize
today: small pads of vinegar-seasoned rice topped with delicate
slices of fish, called nigiri sushi (shown above). Equally
popular is maki sushi, a rolled variation. Sometimes rice
and fish are rolled in nori (seaweed) and sliced into bite
sizes. Rolls also can be served "inside out," with
seaweed under a rice layer. But as long as there's seasoned
rice, it's all sushi.
Modern sushi chefs interpret these definitions loosely. Ingredients
often are cooked or non-threatening, and they are inspired
by cuisines such as Nuevo Latino and Brazilian. Ever tried
a smoked salmon and cream cheese roll? It's called a Philadelphia
roll.
Toshi Sugiura, president of the California Sushi Academy,
is a fan of the new flavors. "Half of my heart hurts
when I make the new rolls," he says, "but it's all
about taste -- and it's good." Students at the academy
must learn sushi basics and strict safety techniques. But
after that, Sugiura encourages creativity. He acknowledges
that, thanks to "fusion sushi" and cooked ingredients,
more people are trying sushi. And for him, that's a positive.
What to order
If you're a purist but you're timid about raw fish, don't
despair. Tamago, a kind of omelet, always has been cooked.
Tako (octopus) has been cooked for years; boiling can make
chewing easier and slightly extend the "shelf life"
of this very perishable ingredient. Rich, sweet eel is boiled,
too. And shrimp, although it may be served raw if it's sweet
and very fresh, often is cooked.
So, when you're ready to sidle up to a sushi bar, here's a
can't-miss plan for a fully cooked, yet totally authentic,
spread: Start with tamago, work your way into eel nigiri sushi,
and order a few pieces of shrimp maki on the side. Sweet,
salty, crunchy, smooth -- it doesn't get much better than
that.
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